THE contrast to an artist's eye could not be more complete—a castellated toy fort hard against the billowing magnificence of the North Harris hills, and a polite red-brick doll's house with roses clambering up its Georgian front. But Amhuinnsuidhe Castle in Harris and the Red House at Mendham have more in common than meets the eye. Their owners have diversified, establishing businesses round their family homes, and both now run excellent painting courses. Different in emphasis, each is committed to providing the best tuition in a relaxed yet stimulating environment.

The courses are run by professional artists, including Hugo Grenville, who, with his wife Sophie, set up Red House Studios in 2001. Their house, which has an early 17th-century wing, was virtually derelict when they acquired it in 1996 and began its repair. The repainted rooms, redolent of Mr Grenville's own domestic scenes, reflect his aesthetic—a delight in colour and tonality which extends to the walled garden. Here, vivid borders and blowsy pergolas have transformed a weed-choked wilderness, and a studio has been built.

The intensive four-day courses are aimed at building up the skills and confidence of serious-minded artists. Mr Grenville teaches at several levels in oils and a more philosophical advanced class, and has lined up David Gurtis, Anthony Oakshett and Christopher Baker to run other courses this year. Students appreciate an atmosphere that encourages invigorating discussion and intense concentration, yet is 'supportive and fun'. Ideas are exchanged over delicious lunches, home-made from produce grown in the kitchen garden and often alfresco, while teas are accompanied by illustrated talks. Students are provided with a list of farmhouse B&Bs and other accommodation in the surrounding villages.

Amhuinnsuidhe's residential courses are run by no less distinguished a group of artists—Tim Fargher, Hugh Buchanan and Caroline McAdam dark—but the atmosphere is more painting holiday than school, as befits its setting in a baronial shooting lodge, built in 1867 for the Earl of Dumnore. The laird today is Jonathan Bulmer, who has refurnished much of the interior with a connoisseur's eye. He has introduced good paintings and porcelain, stocked the cellars with the finest vintages, and put the famous chef Rosemary Shrager in command of the kitchens. The atmosphere is that of an industrious house party, with the attractions of one of Scotland's finest sporting estates on the doorstep.

The leading Scottish watercolourist Hugh Buchanan was in residence the week I visited, a seasoned tutor with a wealth of invaluable advice. Mornings started in the rod room (which doubles as a studio) with a practical demonstration and critique of the previous day's work. Glorious spring- weather soon lured us outdoors, where we practised plein air techniques on hills and beaches, or sat beside a sheltered anchorage studying boats and their reflections on water. What better subject for the artist than this blue-rimmed landscape, with its bewitching extremes of wind-scoured rock and flower-strewn machair? Tim Fargher's landscape masterclasses flourish on this colourist's palette, while Hugh Buchanan's medium is ideally suited to the lucid Hebridean light. When it rains, the castle interior provides endless inspiration, with its changing scale and sculptural detail. Long windows overlooking the Sound of Taransay admit sudden, unexpected shafts of light.

'If you get bored of painting, you've always got seared scallops with scallop and prawn tortellini drizzled with a red pepper and spicy sauce to look forward to', declared our teacher. Anywhere else I might have doubted his priorities, but at Amhuinnsuidhe there is no getting away from it, the cuisine eclipses all. There is quite simply no finer food in Scotland. This is not just because venison, lamb and shellfish abound locally, and fresh garlic, morels and fennel are flown in regularly from abroad. The key to Amhuinnsuidhe's reputation is its irrepressible resident 'Castle Cook', and her highly successful cookery school. This runs concurrently with the painting courses, providing a brilliant solution to the catering. Extravagant feasts cooked under her energetic supervision make their way from the castle's nerve centre to the panelled dining room at least twice a day.

Courses at The Red House Studios run from May-October, for details contact Sophie Grenville, The Red House, Mendham, Suffolk IP20 OJD (tel 01379 586224; fax 01379588152; e-mail hg@redhousestudios.com; website www.redhousestudios. corn).

http://www.hugogrenville.com